Headed to Chincoteague Island for vacation? Is it really a “one horse town”?
June 30, 2009
by Hildie Block
Thinking about going to Chincoteague for vacation? Chincoteague is a small island with a main street that has changed only a little since the 1940s. It was made famous by the book and movie Misty of Chincoteague which celebrates the “pony swim” that takes place every July. The “wild” ponies of Chincoteague are actually a herd owned by the firemen of the Island, and some of the young are sold off at auction after they are rounded up and swum across the channel every July. The funds are used to support the firehouse in the town.
The biggest confusion about going to Chincoteague is that there is no beach. The beach is on the next island over, Assateague Island (also where the wild ponies live). Assateague Island is a National Park – half of it is in Maryland, the other half is in Virginia. The Virginia half boasts the beach that you can get to from Chincoteague, which is named alarmingly enough, “Chincoteague National Wildlife Refuge.” Yeah. So it’s a 5-10 minute drive from downtown Chincoteague, and you need a pass which costs about $10 for the week.
But then the beach! It’s beautiful! Unsullied by commerce, spread out, lots of wild life and close by parking. Most families choose to hang out “between the life guards” – that is in an area watched by the lifeguards, that is also a quick trot to the Tom’s Cove Nature Center. Here’s a link to get the kids started before you go!
If you go after July 1st, two things to remember.
- Pack bug spray. The island treats for mosquitoes and has lots of ways of keeping the population down, but it still can get buggy.
- On weekends, throughout JULY, there is the Fireman’s Carnival – this is a fair that is all rides and funnel cake and snow cones. Very reasonably priced.
Where to stay:
There are many camp grounds and motel/inns on Chincoteague, but only two “hotels” with suites, Comfort Inn Suites (757-336-3700) and the Hampton Inn and Suites (757-336-1616). They both boast lovely staff and indoor pools -- and breakfast. Right next to each other, they are almost identical – here’s the only differences:
Comfort Inn has an outdoor pool and “make your own waffles” for breakfast. Hampton Suites has a nicer eating area for breakfast and more extensive breakfast, including an outdoor deck for eating. Both hotels have hot tubs. Neither has a restaurant or room service.
Lots of links for Chincoteague accomodations can be found here: www.chincoteague.com/index.htm.
What to do:
One of the things I love best about Chincoteague is the National Park and Nature Center classes. You can get the list at either nature center (either the first “main” center as you enter the preserve or the Tom’s Cove center on the beach). There are daily classes for kids and adults, bird watching, hikes, “creature feature” which is every day around 3pm. It’s pretty easy for kids to earn the Jr. Ranger Badge – which is awarded every day right before the Creature Feature. Twice a week there is a campfire on the beach, with a program and then roasting of marshmallows (pack sticks at home or deal with buying something at the small grocery on the island). You bring your beach chairs or blankets and settle in around dusk for a fun evening.
As you drive to the beach, bring your binoculars and birding books – and anytime you see someone pulled over, pull over and get out and look. You’ll definitely see the ponies close up at least once during your week!
Climbing the lighthouse can be fun while you are at the refuge – it’s old and kinda cool and you get a great view from the top.
Two mini golf places, Refuge Mini Golf and Surfside Mini Golf that boast fun in the shape of arcades, bumper boats, go karts and climbing walls – both on Maddox.
You can rent bikes to do the nature loop during the day or mopeds/trigger cars for after 3:30 when the loop is open to vehicles. Jus’ Bikes on Maddox offers both the motorized and non-motorized options.
The Chincoteague Pony Center offers pony rides, lessons and a pony show each evening. They have several of the offspring of Misty and all is clean and well cared for. The gift shop is a great place to pick things up – also, not to be missed is Walter the Purple Pony on Main Street and the Brandt on Maddox for gifts.
My secret treat is to get a ride with Captain Barry! There are many boat rides/sunset cruises you can book in Chincoteague, but Captain Barry is my favorite. His boat only holds six, but it is good “no rules” fun! We did an adventure in the waterway between Chincoteague and Wallops Island – he took us to a sand bar where we saw all manner of critters and “clammed” with our feet and ate those clams a few minutes later! We learned how to hold a crab and also nabbed a few oysters to try as well. It was a blast. Captain Barry’s Back Bay Cruises; 757-336-6508.
What if it rains?
There are many low key things to do if it rains on Chincoteague. The good news is that the storms often skip the island and hit Ocean City instead! There is an Oyster and Maritime Museum, the Refuge Waterfowl museum on Maddox (757) 336-5800, the tiny Island Aquarium hidden in the decaying Landmark Shopping Center, and a few other very small places to explore. And souvenir shopping!
On the way to Chincoteague you drive across Wallops Island – and you can’t miss seeing the NASA Center there. They also have programs for kids, and are a satellite launch site. Not a bad choice for a rainy day.
The Island Roxy Theater on Main Street always has a G or PG movie. It’s an old theater that hasn’t been updated, but it is comfortable.
There is also Cleopatra’s Paint your Own Pottery Place on Main Street and they will ship home!
What to eat:
In general, unlike some beach towns like Rehoboth, Chincoteague is not known for its food. I recommend for take-out lunch, the very cute Sea Star on Main Street and for a nicer dinner, Bill’s also on Main Street, near the movie theater. Otherwise, sadly, we often find ourselves at Ledo’s Pizza on Maddox. There are many new restaurants every year and hopefully some new folks will find their niche on the Island. There are many seafood places, most expensive and only okay . Other places like Maria’s and Famous Pizza and Subs, and just fine for family food, but nothing to get excited about. And there is a McDonald’s and a Subway just before you cross over to the Refuge for those who are so inclined.
Whatever you do eat, SAVE ROOM FOR ICE CREAM! This is the real reason to go to the island! There are three island only ice cream places, ALL COMPLETELY WORTH VISITING! The Island Creamery is on Maddox and has many varieties of homemade ice cream, including the popular Pony Roundup Sundae – if you can finish it you get your picture on the wall. The place smells wonderfully of the waffle cones they make on site.
Mueller’s Ice Cream Parlor is on Main near the movie theater. It’s an old fashioned ice cream parlor with wrought iron tables and ceiling fans. Black and white tile floors in a house that dates back to 1875 and is said to have a real ghost!
But the most popular of all is Mister Whippy, a soft serve place that has many flavors of “dip” and also slushies – and a DRIVE THRU! You can often see Mister Whippy himself out front (he’s a smiling ice cream cone!)
THERE’S NO STARBUCKS – but the Main Street Coffeehouse at the corner of Main and Maddox is amazing. Sure to keep you in lattes -- it’s a wonderful coffeehouse with clothing and jewelery and gifts and art and books – and a covered porch to sip. A great place to escape without the kids while the hubby takes them biking.
Our Kids Reader Comments:
- "We have visited the island many times over the last 8 years or so, even before having kids. We have rented cottages and houses from igetaway.net. They show accurate pictures and descriptions on each house. Staff can provide additional (and honest!) information over the phone. We rented from them at least 5 times and have had great vacations there." - Ana G.
- "Just a note about rainy days and restaurants for kids - we now have a bowling alley - Libertino Lanes. It's got bumpers and a snack bar - great fun for kids if it rains. As for food - you should try Mr. Baldy's Restaurant. It's smoke & alcohol-free and caters to children with toys and coloring and a children's menu that even grown ups can order from. They have an under-the-sea mural in the back room created by a local artist with the help of the Chincoteague Elementary School kids." - Tina D.
